An inflatable boat can be a source of immense pride and joy to anyone who owns it. If you've just joined this elite clique of inflatable boat-owners, learning the various aspects of maintenance is imperative if your boat is to remain in mint condition.

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

Inflatable boats are not nearly as durable as their wood, fiberglass or aluminum counterparts. However, though they require considerably more care than other boats, regular maintenance will reward you with years of excellent service.

Don't Chafe the Boat

Abrasion is the one of the biggest enemies of inflatable boats, aside from radiation and oxidation. Unlike more rugged boats that can be dragged across any surface without dire consequences, your inflatable boat cannot be dragged even through very shallow water. Doing so exposes it to the imminent risk of getting jagged and torn on the sharp rocks and other underwater debris.

Likewise, care must be used when tying your inflatable boat to a dock where it can get damaged when the waves cause the boat to continuously rub against pilings and hinge bolts that hold floating dock sections together.

While common sense dictates that you keep your boat away from craggy beaches, don't let this stop you from exploiting the full potential of your boat. Rocky beaches bring a certain joy not found in calmer waters and avoiding them altogether is not the solution. If you can avoid dragging your inflatable, especially where oyster and coral shells are present, your boat will make it to the water front none the worse for wear.

Whereas you may not think twice about lifting and carrying a small inflatable boat, larger sized boats do present a bigger challenge. A 12-foot sport boat complete with motor and gas, can weigh several hundred pounds; far too much weight for less than four healthy adults to handle. Dragging the boat may be the only alternative in the absence of the requisite minimum manpower and damage to the bottom fabric of the boat will be unavoidable. Under these circumstances, employing an offshore anchoring system is the best solution.

Metal fittings and even tow lines and ropes can cause chafing. While flat nylon webbing is preferred, sections of hose can be slipped over rough lines and ropes to protect the fabric. A plastic coffee can lid can act as a buffer between metal fittings and your boat's fabric. Simply cut a slit into the center of the lid and slide it over the ring before attaching the shakle.

Keeping It Clean

Forget the old saying, "Cleanliness is next to Godliness"; the truth is, when it comes to your inflatable boat, cleanliness is just a pipe dream. Whether you are pulling in your daily catch of mussels or even picking up the kids after playing on the beach, sand and dirt are inevitable. Sand is quite an abrasive substance and when it finds its way into the space between the floorboards and the fabric, it can quickly lead to small, nearly impossible-to-detect leaks that are even harder to repair because of their tricky locations. In the worst-case scenario, a professional may have to remove the fabric floor to complete the repair job.

Of course the most obvious move is to prevent as much sand and dirt from making it into the boat in the first place. Take a few extra seconds to rinse everything and everyone thoroughly before putting them in the boat. There's no way to avoid dirt entirely, but with a periodic and thorough cleaning you will prolong the life of your inflatable tremendously.

THE WASHDOWN

Depending on how often you use your boat, you should give it a thorough periodically. Regular rinses are helpful but a real wash down should be repeated every so often, at least once or twice per season.

1.- Start by spreading a tarp or other heavy plastic sheeting on a flat, smooth area such as a driveway or your lawn

2.- Deflate the boat and disassemble it completely

3.- Remove the floorboards and inflate the stripped-down boat just sufficiently to maintain its shape.

4.- Using a good household or shop vacuum-cleaner, vacuum the entire inside of the boat, with special attention to any seams where dirt and debris might hide. Don't worry about the embedded debris right now, just focus on the loose material. By only partially inflating the air chambers, you should be able to reach most areas with a bit of effort.

5.- To a bucket of hot water, add some good liquid detergent; dish soap, carwash detergent or even shampoo along with a couple of ounces of ammonia.

6.- Clean the outside of the boat with a medium bristle scrubber, then move on to the inside, paying particular attention to those out-of-the-way areas where the tubes and the floor meet. This is when you'll be getting rid of all that buildup

7.- When you have scrubbed the entire body of your boat, rinse and dry it thoroughly with a chamois or towel

All Done! Your boat should look shiny and new!!

Removing Bottom Growth

The term "bottom growth" refers to that growth that can accumulate below the water line when a boat is left stationary in water for too long. On your inflatable boat, growth needs to be removed carefully. Metal scrapers and sanding will cause damage to the boat's rubberized fabric.

The best way to remove this growth is to let it die by exposing it to direct sunlight for a day or two then washing the affected area with a strong soap and a good stiff brush. Be prepared for stains and don't bother trying to scrub them away. They're part of your boat now whether you like it or not.

As for those barnacle rings; leave them be. Trying to scrub them off could just get them even more embedded into the fabric of the boat.

Restorative Agents

Boats with dark pigmented dyes including red or dark grey will fade over time with exposure to the elements. PVC boats are more fade-resistant than Hypalon, which is more resistant to UV degradation. Regardless of the original color, your boat will no doubt have some color issues over time.

There are several commercial-grade restoring agents available, but you need to bear in mind that this type of cleaner works by removing the oxidized layer of coating on the boat's fabric. While the results are quite dramatic, repeated use can be damaging to the fabric. Additionally, some cleaners will damage the UV barrier on PVC boats.

Do not use cleaners or restoring agents that contain silicone! Overwhelming evidence shows that silicone can speed separation of the seams that hold the boat together. What's more, PVC boats that have been treated with silicone make repair work difficult since the adhesive patches will have difficulty adhering to the surface. Before using any commercial product, read the label. The best protection against fading and damage is a good quality boat cover.

If you absolutely must remove the oxidation, try a cream bathroom cleanser like Soft Scrub, but only on Hypalon boats. When you're finished, use a non-silicone based UV protectant like 303 Protectant.

Painting Inflatables

If left to the elements for any length of time, no cleaner is going to restore the finish. Believe it or not, it is possible for you to paint your inflatable boat. A few coats of paint can do more than restore or change the color; it can also help to seal leaks due to thinning of the fabric.

CHECKING FOR LEAKS

1.- Start with a clean boat that is fully inflated

2.- Mix equal parts liquid dish detergent and water in a cup and paint the solution over all seams. Leaks will be evident by a row of tiny bubbles.

3.- Clearly mark each leak with a grease pencil

4.- Check the inflation valves using the same method, with the caps screwed on securely

5.- Finally, check the outside surface of the tubes and rinse the boat thoroughly.

The bottom of most inflatable boats is not pressurized, making the approach to leak detection a bit different.

1.- Leave the boat fully inflated in a covered indoor area to ensure that it is totally dry

2.- With the boat upside down, coat the entire bottom with baby powder

3.- Turn the boat upright and stand it on sawhorses or a few kitchen chairs - whatever it takes to keep the boat off the ground and level

4.- Pour about ½ gallon of water inside the boat and have someone carefully slosh the water around the entire interior surface. From underneath, leaks will show as dark damp spots in the powder. Mark them in grease pencil and read further for information on how to fix them

THE HARD PARTS

Caring for the wood and metal parts of your boat is as easy as cleaning them thoroughly with a scrub brush and soap and looking for any visible scratches or abrasions that break through the finish. These penetrations should be repaired before the damage gets any worse.

Wood Parts

Every scrape and scratch on the wood surfaces allows water to penetrate into the wood fibers. If saturated, this can lead to warping and delamination or even rotting. Whether your wooden parts are finished with varnish or polyurethane paint will be a factor in how you maintain the finish.

VARNISHED SURFACES

Odds are good that your floorboards are finished with either polyurethane varnish or a commercial polyester finish. They look amazing and hold their finish well, but are difficult to repair when they do start to deteriorate.

Polyurethane finishes can be touched up with a small brush and a good marine-grade poly varnish, but touch ups are bandages at best, and will likely not last longer than the end of the season.

Thankfully, most manufacturers no longer use polyester finishes. If your boat is older and your polyurethane touch-ups just won't dry, chances are good that you have polyester. The only feasible option is to strip the entire finish and start fresh from the bare wood.

For those wood parts that cannot be removed from the boat, carefully mask the entire surrounding fabric and rubber with layers of heavy craft paper and a good quality masking tape.

Coat the wood surface with a high-viscosity paint remover using great care to not get any on the tape or most especially not on the fabric. Allow the product to work for the specified amount of time and scrape it away using a putty knife. Don't flush the area with water or the chemicals will spill over onto your precious fabric! The process can be repeated if necessary to remove all of the old finish.

Using clean rags wipe the wood surface until all traces of the stripping agent are gone and then wash it with denatured alcohol to neutralize any remainder. You might want to consider durable epoxy/varnish finish at this point. It is far stronger and will outlast regular varnish several times over. For more information on applying an epoxy finish, consult a good book such as Wooden Boat Renovation by Jim Trefethen (International Marine, 1993).

Sand the newly stripped wood with aluminum oxide paper, graduating from 80-grit to 220-grit. Be aware that the transom is most likely made of plywood, so use caution and care so as not to sand through the surface. Brush on several coats of high quality marine-grade varnish, sanding lightly between each coat. Six coats is the minimum, but the more coats you apply, the better looking and more durable the end result will be.

Another option for treating scratched or damaged polyurethane or polyester-coated parts is to give them a soak in boiled linseed oil that you can get at any paint store. It will not affect the finish at all, but will protect the underlying wood by penetrating through the scratches. A weekly soak will make the wood last a surprising amount of time, though they will start looking less-than-stellar eventually.

If the varnish has worn to the point that the wood looks weathered and stained, go right ahead and give it a good coat of paint. It is much easier than poly-coating and might be just the ticket to make scruffy-looking components appear brand new.

Overwhelmed at the thought of all the work involved? Check out the current replacement costs; just the cost of replacing a set of oars is enough to make you see things with a different perspective.

PAINTED SURFACES

Maintaining the painted surfaces on your boat is much less tedious. The process is basically the same -clean and dry the parts then touch up the abrasions. The easy part comes when looking for touch up paint. Auto supply shops sell touch-up paint in hundreds of colors in both aerosol and 1 oz. bottles. Most products of this type are enamel-based, making it compatible for use on most boats. Be sure to test it out on a hidden area first.

Repairing a scratch or break in the paint is as easy as removing the surface gloss with 120-grit aluminum oxide paper. Take care to cover all surrounding fabric with paper and masking tape, and then just apply the paint according the manufacturer's instructions. Don't be too concerned about the colors matching perfectly. That's a task better suited to when you have the time to refinish the entire surface. If you don't want to bother with touching up and you aren't too concerned about visible scratches, the boiled linseed oil soak will work fine on painted surfaces as well.

Metal Parts

Most inflatable boats of any size have at least a few metal parts, most commonly made of aluminum or stainless steel. Some even contain parts made of plastic coated mild steel - usually on the outboard brackets. All too often these parts aren't properly cared for because of the mistaken assumption that they won't rust. Know and understand that all of these materials will in fact oxidize regularly and galvanic corrosion can cause them to fall apart rapidly should the parts come in contact with each other. Metal parts should be inspected just as thoroughly and regularly as the rest of your boat.

STAINLESS STEEL

By far the easiest metal to maintain; all that is required of stainless steel components is a regular cleaning and an occasional spray with a rust preventative such as WD-40. Don't let the name fool you - stainless steel can and will stain. A good quality mental polish will usually be all it takes to remove stains and restore the original shine.

If stainless parts gave become rusty and pitted, a much more serious response is called for. A weak 50/1 solution of muriatic acid will usually do the trick. The active ingredient in muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid which makes it incredibly powerful and equally dangerous. Read and follow the warnings and precautions on the container and always wear eye and skin protection. Be sure to use it in well ventilated areas, as the fumes are quite toxic as well.

Always mix muriatic acid in a container made of plastic or glass. For obvious reasons, metal should never be used. Immerse the affected parts in the weak acid solution and leave it to boil. When the bubbles and boiling have stopped, the parts are ready to be removed and like magic, all evidence of the rust will be gone. Rinse the part well with clean water, dry thoroughly and follow up with a good metal polish like Noxon and they will be ready to be reinstalled on the boat in no time.

ALUMINUM

Maintaining aluminum components can be a lot like taking care of stainless steel with one major exception. Muriatic acid is far too strong for aluminum and can weaken the structure. WD-40 or another similar rust preventative is usually all that you will need to remove oxidation from aluminum. Extensive damage can be removed with rust preventative, a plastic scrub pad like that made by ScotchBrite and a little elbow grease. Be sure to seal any scratches or abrasions in anodized aluminum components as quickly as possible with a clear lacquer. In a pinch, clear nail polish will work as well.

If the plastic end caps on the metal side rails of your floorboard seem to pop off with some regularity, they can be reattached with a strong polyurethane adhesive product like 3M 5200. In fact, this product seems to make short work of holding together components made of any number of materials.

Boats with hollow aluminum parts such as side rails and oars, are often subject to corrosion on the inside when water finds its way inside - and sooner or later you can bet that it will. Until recently there wasn't much to be done about such corrosion, but a relatively new addition to the market has saved the day. Using a corrosion inhibitor is as easy as spraying any open cavities liberally and it works on more than just aluminum, too.

The down side is that some hollow metal parts don't offer any easy access to the hollow cavity. If this is the case with your parts, you can gain access by drilling a small access hole in an inconspicuous, hidden area of the component. Apply the corrosion inhibitor through the hole and into the cavity, then seal the hole with a rivet made of the same metal as the component itself. It is imperative that you use the same metal; using aluminum on stainless steel or vice versa will result in rapid galvanic corrosion - the process that happens when two dissimilar metals are forced to touch for any length of time. Your component will not last very long, so always use rivets made of the same metal.

MILD STEEL

While steel is known to be a corrosive material, some manufacturers still insist on making some boat component parts out of mild steel. Even though they are coated with a polymer, all this does is delay the inevitable, most likely in the name of saving money on manufacturing costs. Outboard brackets on soft tails, which incidentally are the most common boat component made from mild steel, are quite expensive in the first place, and manufacturing them from stainless steel could add 10 % or more to the cost. Still, it is important to note this potential problem before it becomes one.

If you find that your outboard brackets are indeed made of coated mild steel, you must take extra measures to ensure that the protective plastic coating remains completely intact. The smallest amount of salt water finding its way between the coating and the corrosive steel inside can cause catastrophic damage to your brackets before you know it.

There are two options on the market that make easy work of maintaining the outer coating of mild steel components. Liquid electrical tape is available from any electrical supply store. It is convenient as it comes with its own applicator brush right inside the bottle. The only real down side is that it isn't available in any color other than black. Liquid rubber is most often used as a coating for metal tool handles and you can find it nearly anywhere that sells hardware and associated supplies. To use either product you must first clean the entire affected area thoroughly with acetone or lacquer thinner. When it has dried, coat the damaged area liberally, allow it to dry and apply additional coats until the desired thickness has been achieved.

If a bulge or small blister becomes evident in the plastic coating, the time for preventative maintenance has passed. The bulge is caused by a build up of rust, and serves evidence that water has already breached the coating and has likely caused significant damage to the metal underneath. In this case, you must remove the rust and buildup from the metal before it disintegrates entirely resulting in expensive replacement costs.

1.- First, pull the plastic coating away from the damaged component until you have exposed about an inch of unaffected steel surrounding the area

2.- Remove the loose scale and debris with a stiff wire brush and clean the entire affected area with a product made from a phosphoric acid base. Unlike products made with hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid will react with the rust and form a protective coating of iron phosphate over the steel

3.- Wearing eye and skin protection continue to brush on the acid product over all of the exposed metal until the product stops foaming completely. Allow the area to fully dry, then flush it liberally with clean, fresh water

4.- When the bracket has been treated and has been allowed to dry completely, clean the area with acetone of lacquer thinner

5.- Apply multiple coats of liquid rubber or liquid electrical tape over the damaged area, allowing at least an hour for each coat to dry before reapplying. Repeat the application until the rubber is close in thickness to the original coating that surrounds it

While this type of repair will help to keep moisture at bay and away from the corrosive mild steel, it is neither as rugged nor as durable as the original coating and it will degrade with extended exposure to UV rays. For that reason, you should follow the steps listed above by wrapping the repair with a plastic tape. Auto supply stores carry decorative vinyl tapes in plenty of colors to appease your creative side. Of course, regular old electrical tape will work just as well if you aren't feeling very artistic.

BOTTOM PAINT

If your situation requires leaving your inflatable in the water for more than just a few days at a time, you will have to find a way to protect the bottom of your boat from marine growth. While you may be tempted to use a regular paint for this job, you may as well save your time. Even paints that are intended for use on boat bottoms will not work well on your inflatable boat because they are not intended to adhere to the fabric and they are generally too thick to allow for proper deflation and storage without cracking and peeling. Thinning this type of paint may allow for the flexibility to fold and deflate it, but it will also result in loss of ability to repel the marine growth it is intended to protect from.

Of the bottom paint offerings that are on the market for inflatable boats, the most common uses a two-step process that involves a primer coat followed by a high quality bottom paint usually containing cuprous oxide.

Prior to starting the process, the bottom surface must be cleaned thoroughly, regardless of their age. Older boats with marine buildup should be scrubbed clean with a strong soap and water solution and a stiff bristle brush, followed by an acetone scrub until all traces of oxidation are removed. A good way to know your cleaning job is complete is to dip a clean rag in the solvent and rub it on the surface. It should not remove any more color. If it does, you must repeat the process again before painting.

Even a new boat that has no marine growth on it must be cleaned prior to painting, in order to remove the plastic surface coatings from the fabric on the bottom of the boat. In most cases this will be easy work that can be accomplished simply with a cloth soaked in solvent. For inflatables with a rough bottom texture caused by the fabric protruding through the plasticized coating; a stiff bristle brush should do the trick.

If you have ever used a restorative agent on the boat or any cleaning agent that contains silicone, it is important that you remove any and all traces of it with a solvent wash such as Interlux #202. A thorough cleansing is absolutely critical at this stage as any trace of residual coatings, silicones or oxidation on the fabric may stop the primer from adhering, rendering your entire paint job useless.

When you are certain that the bottom surface is clean, apply the primer coat with a clean brush. Primer coats act as a bonding agent between the boat surface and the final paint coat. Primers usually dry rather quickly and you will be able to proceed with the first coat of paint almost immediately. When choosing your paint, look for one with a very high percentage of cuprous oxide. This will ensure the longest durability and lifespan and it should last for several seasons if applied properly.

The paint line on your inflatable should be a few inches above the waterline of a fully loaded boat, just as it should be for any boat. For a professional looking line edge, use a good quality masking tape to mark the paint line. While the paint itself may only last for a couple of seasons, the primer will likely last for the lifetime of the boat unless it is compromised somehow by being brushed or dragged against rocks. If this happens, be sure to cleanse and touch up the area with fresh primer before reapplying your bottom paint.

The hard bottoms of RIBs can be painted similarly to any aluminum or fiberglass boat, with one specific caveat. If the side and stern tubes of your RIBs will be in the water when the boat is at rest, they will need extra protection. A good coat of a high quality marine grade primer from your local marine paint supplier should help, followed by a nice coat of top notch bottom paint.

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